GCDS Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection


Giuliano Calza wants to be taken seriously. The designer and co-founder of GCDS (the other is his brother Giordano, chief executive officer) opened the conversation about the new collection with this declaration. In the background, during a showroom tour on the eve of the show, were garments with embroidered depictions of SpongeBob SquarePants. The invitation to the show arrived accompanied by a small pink puppet, the alien Weirdo. “It’s harder to be taken seriously when you’re making funny clothes,” added Calza.

GCDS has built its DNA on sweatshirts with logos, but the proposal is now more precious. On the runway was a series of rethought and more sophisticated versions of past looks—the mermaid dress, the denim jacket, the micro bra. This time the sexy, draped dress, had thermally welded gradient rhinestones, which looked like drops of rain on the fabric. A micro-bomber jacket featured floating sequins reminiscent of the seaweed from the magical world of SpongeBob, who was himself embroidered on the jumpsuit that opened the show, worn by Bianca Balti. Look after look, the mythical cartoon character created by marine biologist Stephen Hillenburg came to life on short and long dresses in semi-transparent chiffon by means of fine embroidery.

“The important thing, in trying to be taken seriously, is to keep a good dose of irony,” said Calza, who also showed evening gowns that were actually jumpsuits and very high-heeled boots in the shape of a monstrous mouth full of sharp teeth. Weirdo, that little alien, may be different from his surroundings, but the fact that he knows how to be himself has become his strength.



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