Kudos / Soduk Tokyo Spring 2023 Collection


Designer Tsukasa Kudo spent his youth in the early 2000s in his hometown of Okinawa, Japan. His childhood and the looming American streetwear culture that so heavily influenced it — partly due to the American military bases that resided there — would be an inspiration for his spring 2023 collections for Kudos and Soduk, which he showed together for the first time.

Kudo originally launched Kudos in 2017 as a label that honored traditional menswear codes, and followed it soon afterward with womenswear label Soduk. In an unexpected turn of events, he found that its appeal was the opposite; women more naturally gravitated to Kudos, and men to Soduk. “Due to the structure of the show, where the two brands crossover, it was important to consider who, what, and how to wear them,” explains the designer. “Kudos and Soduk were mixed and styled in a way appropriate for [each], regardless of sex and gender. It is my sincere hope that the viewer fluidly perceives the gender of the collection.” He is letting the people wear what they want.

Tailoring and draping have always been vital foundations in the Kudos brand. But this season, with the innovation of a new digital printing technology from Kornit Digital that requires almost no water, Kudo also incorporated lots of American streetwear-inspired graphic tees, hoodies, and aprons; along with deconstructed, yet structural and tailored midi dresses and suits. Bare skin also played an important part in his silhouette, he explained he wanted to “create a space between the 3-D structure and the body, challenging the sensual gaze that serves as the main axis of Kudos to project a realistic form of womenswear.” Meanwhile Soduk’s signature knitwear remains a standout in this collection, the designer played around with more extravagant silhouettes and cuts than his earlier designs, with structured and oversized vests with knitted snoods fitting to be worn as both a fashion item or for warmth, whether you are venturing out into snowy terrain or not.

There is a hint of youthful playfulness and rebellion against traditional Japanese culture in Kudo’s designs, including a modernized kimono, and two same-sex wedding looks (same-sex marriage is still illegal the country). It’s easy to see why Kudos and Soduk are so immersed in Japan’s open-minded youth culture. But beyond the rebellion, perhaps there’s hope in his clothes too, that in the future his non-traditional wedding looks can shed the label, and be openly worn by the next generation.



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