For fall, Mayner built his lineup around the shoulder. I still remember the press release accompanying the collection; the first line read: “the shoulder is kind of going wide wide wide wide wide wide wide to the side.” Mayner is a designer obsessed with silhouette. It would be easy to dismiss his clothes as simply big, but there’s more to it: They’re big and buoyant. Consider this suit. The elongated, semi-dropped shoulder makes the neck look longer. The extra large trousers gathered at the front with a pleat make the torso look shorter, and one’s frame smaller (I like to feel petite). The immensity of his clothes work in complicity with the wearer to create a new fantastical shape. They offer protection but invite onlookers to look.
Since the women’s fall collections in March, a renewed interest in tailoring has been brewing, but now by way of an authentic curiosity in the possibilities of these clothing items. If before a suit was an enforced uniform, today it’s merely another sartorial option in a closet overflowing with them. We now get to play with the suit and experiment with it like we do with a hoodie or a pair of jeans. I used to have no desire to wear a suit (I tend to associate them with an outdated masculinity I want nothing to do with), but lately I’ve been reconsidering them.
Funnily enough, just as I was typing this, my friend Sol DM’d me a photo of this same Hed jacket. He argued that we’ve gotten to the point in our friendship where we should buy one to share. I agree, we should have one, but even though I very well know that we’d both comfortably fit in the jacket together, I don’t want to share. The Hed jacket is my fall grail, my most wanted.